The Churches of Rome

Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of the oldest churches in Rome. It was probably built in the early fourth century, although legend states that it was founded by Pope Callixtus I (whose remains are buried under the altar) in the 3rd century. The body of this Romanesque church dates from the 1100s. The 22 granite columns in the nave came from the ruins of ancient Roman buildings.
The façade was rebuilt by Carlo Fontana in 1702. Four Baroque statues above the portal depict Sts Calixtus, Cornelius, Julius and Calepodius. The mosaics are medieval, probably from the 12th century. It is thought that Pietro Cavallini restored them in the 13th century. The subject is the parable of the wise and the unwise maidens, with the Blessed Virgin in the centre. The maidens on the right side are not wearing crowns, and they have let their lamps burn out. The internal granite columns are from the 12th century rebuilding, and are reused columns from ancient buildings. They are thought to be from the Temple of Isis or the Baths of Caracalla, although this is uncertain. Look closely at their capitals, and you will see the heads of female pagan deities.

The first church here was, according to the Liber Pontificalis, built by Emperor Constantine and consecrated on November 18th 324. It was a small church, built over the grave of St Paul. Between 384 and 386, Emperors Valentinian II, Theodosius and Arcadius demolished the church and built a large basilica. The architect was Cyriades. According to the inscription on the triumphal arch, it was consecrated in 390 by Siricius, and completed in 395 under Emperor Honorius.Although heavily restored, not least after it was damaged by fire, the present basilica looks much the same as it did in the 4th century.
Pope St Leo the Great (440-461) started restoring the church. About 50 years later, Pope St Symmachus (498-514) ordered the reconstruction of the apse, which was unsafe. Several more restorations and changes were carried out, under Pope St Gregory the Great (the transept), Pope Sergius I (687-701; the roof and some rooms), Pope Hadrian I (772-795; the aisles and atrium) and Pope Leo III (795-816; the transept, roof and floor, and added apse mosaic).
Pope Leo XII was elected on 18 November 1823, and fortunately, decided to restor the basilica to its former glory rather than replace it with a new church in a more modern style. The first architect to lead the rebuilding was Pasquale Belli; Giuseppe Valadier had been appointed first but his plans for radical changes were eventually rejected and he was removed from the project in November 1825. Salvi, Paccagnini and Andrea Alippi were appointed as Belli's assistents.

A chapel dedicated to Our Lady was built here, over the Roman tombs of the Domitii family, by Pope Paschal II in 1099. It was financed by the people of Rome, which explains its appellation. Tradition claims that emperor Nero was buried on the slope of the Pincian hill by the piazza. In 1099, Pope Paschal II had his remains disinterred and thrown into the Tiber at the request of those who lived in the area. The chapel was built were the grave had been. It was enlarged and consecrated as a church by Pope Gregory IX (1227-1241). Baccio Pontelli rebuilt it between 1472 and 1479 on the orders of Pope Sixtus IV, making this one of the first Renaissance churches. He also had a monastery built adjacent to the church, and both were given to the Augustinian monks. It was in this monastery that Martin Luther stayed during his visit to Rome in 1511. Bernini carried out alterations to the façade and the interior in the 17th century, on orders from Pope Alexander VII (1655-1667). The Cappella Cerasi has two canvases by Caravaggio, the Conversion of Paul and the Crucifixion of St Peter, from 1601-1602. His realism gives the chapel an intense atmosphere. The Resurrection is by Annibale Carraci, painted 1601.
The venerated icon of the Blessed Virgin, known as the Madonna del Popolo, whish is enshrined at the high altar was given by Pope Gregory IX in 1231. It has until then been in the treasury of the Lateran. It is said to have been painted by St Luke, but is usually dated to the late 12th or early 13th century. The altar is from 1627. The story of Nero's grave is depicted at the arch above the high altar in gilded stucco relief.
Behind the sanctuary are the funerary monuments of Ascanio Cardinal Sforza, died 1505, and Girolamo Basso Cardinal della Rovere, died 1507, both by Andrea Sansovino.

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